The stitching part starts with a length of waxed polyester thread that is approximately 4 times the length of the seam with a needle on each end.

When I started sewing, I tried non synthetic threads like linen and hemp. Those fibers are not strong. They broke after a few tugs. I found that I needed to use a waxed polyester thread. I first tried waxing polyester threads myself (Too labor intensive and creates beeswax crumbles that I have no patients for…..perhaps I wasn’t doing it correctly? Maybe there is an easier way of doing it.?..perhaps) I tried a very popular and well marketed brand called Ritza Tiger Thread. Its braided thread (impressive) it is strong, and comes in a good selection of colors but I find it slippery. Maine Thread is my go-to source for thread these days. I used their waxed polycord which has the perfect amount of wax for gripping stiches.

The stitch I’m using is called a locking saddle stitch.

a wrap over and under with each stitch

pull the stitch tight with both needles to finish a stitch.

starting a new stitch, I begin with inserting the needle from the back (flesh side).

It makes no difference if the wrap goes “over and under” or “under and over” it just needs to be consistent. I pick a pattern and stay with that.

after finishing a seam, I insert both ends of the thread into the last hole.
This tucks the thread under the seam to hide the ends. I will snip off the extra thread it the edge.

one gusset completed.