a little leather purple satchel

with a front pocket.

In the past I would use double sided tape to tape under the graph paper to the flesh side of the leather so I could use every bit of the leather piece. The downside is, there is a residue left on the leather.

Now that I am focusing on smaller bags, I can spare some cut-off.

I am Taping over the pattern with masking or scotch tape to the grain side of the leather.

Holes are punched and then I will trim out with a utility knife.

Pieces (minus the gusset pieces) are trimmed and edges are beveled.

Ready for stitching….

aside from the closure strap being “way the hell” long, it came out cute and I am happy with the design.

This bag was made with violet Gaucho oil leather from La Bretagna Tannery available here.

Hopefully there is some left.

variations on gussets for a satchel design

First there is the CONCAVE gusset variation. The flesh side surfaces of the leather are stitched together to create the inward curve of the gusset.

The concave gusset creates a nice tucked-in look. Less interior room then the following convex gusset designs but is better suited for laptops or tablets that would benefit from the snug fit.

With a concave gusset, I can put in an extended gusset that stiches up along the flap which creates a extra secure closure. The extended gusset may make the bag a bit of a fuss to quickly get items in and out.

So that leads me to try the “reverse option”….. CONVEX gusset with extended flap.

hmmm, yeah. This is like orthopedic shoes to me.

It’s very functional and comfortable to use but frumpy.

I’m really trying to keep that “secure closure” action going but this “messenger bag” flap?…not feeling it.

Maybe something else….maybe not.

Next up is the CONVEX gusset without the extension to the flap.

I removed the gusset extension and the flap fully flop-able….

(not sure how I feel about that either...)

Both single gussets are made in three segments.

Here you can see it on the pocket gusset.

A close up of gusset tabs which can be cinched together with elastic….(which is not happening in picture)

There is one other flap variation to show.

This example is a work in progress. It is a small pouch that is also an example of a

single-cover (in two parts) and a double gusset bag.

A convex gusset with a concave flap extension.

In order to successfully do this, I need to make the flap wider.

The wider flap allows the gusset extension to be concave while also allowing access to the full width of the bag interior.

and there’s that.