Leather Work

a little leather purple satchel

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with a front pocket.

In the past I would use double sided tape to tape under the graph paper to the flesh side of the leather so I could use every bit of the leather piece. The downside is, there is a residue left on the leather.

Now that I am focusing on smaller bags, I can spare some cut-off.

I am Taping over the pattern with masking or scotch tape to the grain side of the leather.

Holes are punched and then I will trim out with a utility knife.

Pieces (minus the gusset pieces) are trimmed and edges are beveled.

Ready for stitching….

aside from the closure strap being “way the hell” long, it came out cute and I am happy with the design.

This bag was made with violet Gaucho oil leather from La Bretagna Tannery available here.

Hopefully there is some left.

variations on gussets for a satchel design

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First there is the CONCAVE gusset variation. The flesh side surfaces of the leather are stitched together to create the inward curve of the gusset.

The concave gusset creates a nice tucked-in look. Less interior room then the following convex gusset designs but is better suited for laptops or tablets that would benefit from the snug fit.

With a concave gusset, I can put in an extended gusset that stiches up along the flap which creates a extra secure closure. The extended gusset may make the bag a bit of a fuss to quickly get items in and out.

So that leads me to try the “reverse option”….. CONVEX gusset with extended flap.

hmmm, yeah. This is like orthopedic shoes to me.

It’s very functional and comfortable to use but frumpy.

I’m really trying to keep that “secure closure” action going but this “messenger bag” flap?…not feeling it.

Maybe something else….maybe not.

Next up is the CONVEX gusset without the extension to the flap.

I removed the gusset extension and the flap fully flop-able….

(not sure how I feel about that either...)

Both single gussets are made in three segments.

Here you can see it on the pocket gusset.

A close up of gusset tabs which can be cinched together with elastic….(which is not happening in picture)

There is one other flap variation to show.

This example is a work in progress. It is a small pouch that is also an example of a

single-cover (in two parts) and a double gusset bag.

A convex gusset with a concave flap extension.

In order to successfully do this, I need to make the flap wider.

The wider flap allows the gusset extension to be concave while also allowing access to the full width of the bag interior.

and there’s that.

PART 5 KVC LEATHER TOTE

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This is a “half of a belly” leather cut.

I will use a portion of it to make the straps for this tote.

I use a long wood slat for a straight edge to make my first guide line.

I use a t-square that is 2″ wide as my template to mark out cuts.

I transfer the full piece up to my work table to cut the straps out.

I use a standard ruler and put a new blade in my utility knife.

I cut about 8″-10″ of length at a time.

I work very carefully.

I bevel the edges of the removeable shoulder strap.

I measure out roughly 24″ lengths of strap for the handles.

I measure out one of them and mark stitching holes.

I replicate those measurements on the second strap.

I am showing how the handles will be folded when stitched.

After I stitch the handle, I bevel then sand to even the edge.

I use a rougher grit then a very fine grit.

I do this over my tub, then wipe out the dust.

The edge after sanding and before burnishing.

Edge after burnishing

The handle connectors are trimmed, punched and burnished.

The second picture shows how they will join the handle.

Stitching the handles to the tote.

For the most part, this tote is finished , just some small separate features to complete.

The shoulder strap is removeable.

I will make a slim shoulder pad to slip onto it.

PART 4 KVC LEATHER TOTE

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2″ wide rectangle loops for handles of bag and 1″ center bar buckle for the tote hardware.

strap attachment pieces for the double handles

working on buckle attachment for the closure.

The piece that will attach the buckle has marks for hole punching.

The... (wait,… I need to go look up what the rod in the buckle is called)

prong.. (oh neeto, I learned something…parts of a buckle…frame, bar and prong)

I need to create a long hole for the prong to go through.

There is a pounding punch tool for creating that shape but I don’t use punches that require hammering cause they make too much noise for being in an apartment. I also would need to go find a heaver table and pound board…..too much extra extra.

This is a little more rustic way of creating the hole. I punch two bigger holes spaced apart.

Then to slice the portion out between the holes. Bevel the oblong hole and burnish it.

(all measurements tested out on scrap)

white stuff in the holes is lotion I used to condition the leather and help burnish the edges.
now for the closure strap. I use a round object to mark corners.
and trim
then bevel
entire piece
stitching the gussets to the cover of the bag
As I stitch the gussets, I incorporate a long thin piece a couple inches from the top rim that will be the reinforcement for securing the hardware attachments.
bottom of gussets are stitched
stitching hardware attachments
now just wait for strap leather to arrive

PART 3 KVC LEATHER TOTE

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The stitching part starts with a length of waxed polyester thread that is approximately 4 times the length of the seam with a needle on each end.

When I started sewing, I tried non synthetic threads like linen and hemp. Those fibers are not strong. They broke after a few tugs. I found that I needed to use a waxed polyester thread. I first tried waxing polyester threads myself (Too labor intensive and creates beeswax crumbles that I have no patients for…..perhaps I wasn’t doing it correctly? Maybe there is an easier way of doing it.?..perhaps) I tried a very popular and well marketed brand called Ritza Tiger Thread. Its braided thread (impressive) it is strong, and comes in a good selection of colors but I find it slippery. Maine Thread is my go-to source for thread these days. I used their waxed polycord which has the perfect amount of wax for gripping stiches.

The stitch I’m using is called a locking saddle stitch.

a wrap over and under with each stitch

pull the stitch tight with both needles to finish a stitch.

starting a new stitch, I begin with inserting the needle from the back (flesh side).

It makes no difference if the wrap goes “over and under” or “under and over” it just needs to be consistent. I pick a pattern and stay with that.

after finishing a seam, I insert both ends of the thread into the last hole.
This tucks the thread under the seam to hide the ends. I will snip off the extra thread it the edge.

one gusset completed.

PART2 KVC leather tote

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This is a remnant piece of leather from a previous project.

It has a pebble grain unlike the smooth grain hide that I have specifically for the tote.

It will match because it is produced from the same tannery and has the same quality.

The contrast in grain adds some interest.

I’m going to use it to create the shoulder strap-keepers that will attach to the gussets.

The following steps I will show for these strap-keepers are the steps I will do for each piece that will make the tote.

I will cut a curve on each end of the keepers. I use a round template to mark the cut.

all marked with cut lines

hook knife for cutting curves

I make the cuts freehand. I used to use the template as a guide but it would sometimes slip.

I found over time cutting freehand allows for more control.

The most important thing is to have a sharp/new blade.

The strap-keeper are trimmed out and ready to have holes punched.

After the holes are punched I will remove the grid paper.

The next step is to bevel the edges of both side of each piece.

This will round the edge and allow for burnishing of the edge.

the pieces are prepped and burnished.

A burnished edge is rubbed with water (one option) and polished till its smooth.

Burnishing takes a long time and the image only shows it partially done.

I used a natural based lotion to condition these pieces which doubled as a burnishing treatment.

The lotion is shea butter based and has no synthetic ingredients.

I’m not sure if I would recommend it as an instruction, but it works for me.

I will go back and do a thorough burnishing on this pieces before stitching.

The gusset pieces are trimmed out, edges hole punched and punched in the middle with an awl where the strap-keeper will be attached.

The strap keeper is slightly wider than the seam it will be stitched to.

This allows for flexibility of the gusset without being pinched by the strap-keeper.

Example of punching holes with an awl.

I use an awl (big strong needle attached to a handle) to punch any hole beyond

the reach of my round hole punch.

The placement of strap-keeper on the gussets.

punching holes with my round hole punch.

Most of the pieces trimmed out, hole punched, and edged beveled.

The remaining pieces left to trim out are for the handle strap attachments and closure buckle.

I am waiting for the hardware to arrive.

I will cut the pieces out for them after I get the exact hardware measurement.

I ordered a specific size item, but I wait till I have the item in hand to make a cut.

The way that I have created the rim that holds the hardware keepers allow for adjustment.

PART1 KVC Leather tote

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This is will be a quick documentation of how I create leatherwork in a small area.

This will be a basic sturdy landscape/vertical style tote with the cover being one large panel and two panels for the gussets.

(a gusset on each side verses one gusset attaching two covers. More on that later after I create a page on “anatomy of bag”)

This piece of leather was purchased from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply

It is a half hide of the Badalassi Carlo – Minerva Smooth in natural. It will eventually age to a deep tan hue.

The first part I go through is laying out the leather and seeing how much I have to work with. This size piece is the perfect amount for a tote. This piece can accommodate a vertical style with a deeper/wider gusset or a horizontal style with a gusset not as deep/wide. If I was going to make a satchel type bag with a flap, I would need more leather. Of course, this size would allow for a small satchel or a few wallets, various covers and………..and I’m gonna stop myself before this bus gets totally lost.

grain side of 1/2 hide
flesh side of 1/2 hide (the bottom)
aligned and taped together sheets of graph paper attached to the flesh side of the leather with double sided masking tape.

I attach graph paper to the leather to mark the pattern and use as a guide for hole punching. ( I use metric grid because 5mm spacing works the best for me.) I like to use large sheets of Rhodia graph paper usually.

I ran out… but had this A4 graph paper journal that I removed a couple signatures and pieced the unfolded sheets together. Works the same.

main panels trimmed out and ready for hole punching.

This tote will be-

WIDTH: 42cm/ 16.5″(approx.)

HEIGHT: 33cm/ 13″(approx.)

DEPTH: (gusset width) 14 cm (5 1/2 “)